What Is Chisel? Definition, Types and How to Use It

What Is Chisel?

A chisel is a cutting tool distinguished by its sharp edge at the end of a metal blade. In practical use, it is often paired with a mallet or hammer, allowing the user to dress, shape, or otherwise manipulate sturdy materials like wood, stone, or metal.

The defining feature of a chisel is its specifically shaped cutting edge so much so that wood chisels, for instance, have lent their name to a particular style of blade grind.

Chisels can be found with handles and blades crafted either from metal or from wood fitted with a keen edge. The basic method of using a chisel involves applying force sometimes by hand, sometimes with the help of a mallet or hammer to drive the blade into the material being worked.

In industrial settings, that force may come from more powerful sources, such as a hydraulic ram or a falling weight, commonly known as a trip hammer.

Among the many variations of chisels, the gouge stands out for its unique application. With its characteristic ‘U’ shaped cross section, a gouge is ideal for carving out small sections of material, making it a favorite in woodworking, woodturning, and sculpture. The shapes produced by a gouge are typically concave, giving it a specialized role among cutting tools.

Tracing the word “chisel” back through history, we find its origins in the Old French “cisel” (now “ciseau”), which in turn comes from the Late Latin “cisellum,” itself derived from “caedere,” meaning “to cut.” Chisels have been around for millennia; their earliest known forms, made of flint, date as far back as 8000 BC.

Ancient Egyptians used copper and later bronze chisels to shape both wood and softer stones. Modern chisels are generally made of steel, manufactured in a wide range of sizes and hardness levels to suit various tasks.

Chisels are frequently encountered in archaeological findings, as are the objects they helped to shape testament to their longstanding role in human craftsmanship.

How to Use a Chisel?

When preparing for any chiseling task, selecting the appropriate type of chisel is essential. You’ll also want to think carefully about the size and blade shape that best fit your specific project.

Before getting started, take a moment to inspect your chisel. It’s always worth making sure the tool is in good shape; a quick check with a square can help you confirm the blade’s flatness.

If you notice the edge isn’t quite sharp, it’s a good idea to sharpen it now keeping the chisel protected and efficient for the work ahead.

With your chisel ready, use a ruler and a carpenter’s square to accurately mark out the section you plan to remove, measuring both the surface area and depth as needed.

When you move to the workpiece, clamp the wood securely; stability here will make your chiseling both safer and more precise.

To create a small indentation in wood, position the chisel upright at a 90-degree angle. A wooden mallet is typically used for this step striking the chisel with the beveled edge facing the wood. As you work, follow the direction of the wood grain.

Gradually chip away at the scored area, removing material bit by bit until you’ve reached the required depth. Always make sure to chisel away from your body, and don’t try to remove too much at once; small, careful strikes are far more effective.

When a project calls for intricate and precise work, paring chisels are a great choice. Paring involves carefully shaving thin layers from the surface. For best results, secure your wood firmly on a bench or in a vice.

One hand should rest on the chisel’s blade to guide it, while the other holds the handle many find it helpful to use their non dominant hand for guiding.

Throughout the process, keep the bottom of the chisel in contact with the wood and proceed with steady, controlled cuts until you reach your desired result.

For masonry work, a different approach is needed. Masonry chisels are designed for working with tough materials like brick or stone. Be sure to choose a chisel with the right shape and width for your job.

Before you begin, mark the material with a pencil or paver’s chalk along the line you intend to chisel. Score along this line, setting your masonry chisel at a 90 degree angle to the surface. With firm, even strikes of the mallet, follow the scoreline until the material breaks cleanly.

No matter what kind of chisel you’re using, keeping a honing stone nearby is always wise. Regular sharpening keeps your tools working at their best. You might also refine the bevel with a grinder before honing and polishing the blade for optimal performance.

How to Use a Wood Chisel?

A well-sharpened wood chisel is a remarkably versatile tool, capable of cutting mortises, smoothing uneven surfaces, shaping corners, and even removing excess glue.

In this discussion, I will walk you through several fundamental techniques, as well as the process of sharpening your chisel for optimal performance.

As any dedicated woodworker will tell you, a wood chisel quickly becomes an essential tool in the workshop. My aim here is to help you make the most of its capabilities.

Technique 1: Mortise cuts

Hold the chisel with the bevel facing downward. To remove thin shavings, gently push or tap the back of the chisel, adjusting the depth by raising or lowering the handle as needed.

When beginning a recess or mortise, it’s helpful to first outline the area using a sharp utility knife, or by making a sequence of shallow chisel cuts that are perpendicular to the surface. Skipping this step increases the risk of cutting beyond the intended boundaries of the mortise.

Once you have a clear perimeter, begin removing the waste inside the outline by tapping the chisel bevel side down with a hammer.

It is important to pay attention to the direction of the wood grain while chiseling. Working with the grain can sometimes lead the chisel deeper than intended, especially if the grain slopes downward into the wood.

If you notice the chisel diving unexpectedly, stop and approach the cut from the opposite direction. This adjustment can prevent unintended damage and give you greater control over your work.

Technique 2: Paring cut

To level the bottom of an open recess, begin by paring away thin slices of wood. It’s important to keep the back of the chisel flat against the surface as you work.

If you want to make the slicing action a bit smoother, try pivoting the chisel as you cut moving the blade in a gentle arc often gives you more control and a cleaner result.

When working with a recess that’s open on one side like the area for a hinge mortise you’ll get the flattest bottom by shaving off fine slices. Hold the back, or unbeveled side, of the chisel flat on the wood to keep your cut even.

As a general rule, if you’re shaving into the wood, you’ll want the bevel facing down. But if your goal is to flatten an area and you can approach it from the side, flip the chisel so the bevel faces up, and keep the back pressed tightly to the surface. This technique gives you better contact and a more precise finish.

Technique 3: Chopping cut

To efficiently remove large sections of wood, it is best to make a series of shallow cuts, gradually slicing away small amounts with each pass. Using a sharp chisel, begin by striking downward with a hammer to a depth of approximately half an inch.

Next, work from the end of the section, angling the chisel to lift out the loosened wood before proceeding further. Maintaining a sharp edge on the chisel is essential for effective and precise cutting.

Safety Note: Always wear protective eyewear during this process.

When clearing wood from notches, position the chisel along the edge of a previous cut and strike it firmly with a hammer. This step does not require a fine finish, as the resulting surface will eventually be concealed by another piece of wood.

Technique 4: Chop and pare

To create a groove, or dado, start by making saw cuts along both edges to reach the required depth. Once the boundaries are set, use a chisel to carefully remove the wood from the middle section.

It helps to space your chisel cuts roughly half an inch apart, as this makes the removal process more manageable.

When working on dadoes or other precise joints, take your time and chisel out the material gradually with a series of shallow cuts. Avoid the temptation to force the chisel too deeply at once, as this can lead to mistakes.

For more demanding work, a hammer or mallet can be used to drive the chisel, but for lighter tasks or when you need finer control, simply pressing with the heel of your hand is often sufficient.

This approach not only gives you more precision but also helps prevent accidental damage to your workpiece.

Technique 5: Scraping

When addressing glue joints or other surface imperfections in woodworking projects, position the chisel so that its blade forms a right angle to the wood, ensuring the back of the chisel faces you.

For situations where you need to remove fine shavings, it is helpful to steady the blade with your fingers and apply gentle pressure as you pull the chisel toward yourself. Keep in mind that successful scraping depends on maintaining a chisel with a flat, sharp edge.

A properly prepared tip will remove material cleanly, without marring the surface or leaving behind scratch marks.

Types of Chisels

1. Woodworking chisels

Woodworking chisels come in a remarkable variety, suited to everything from delicate detailing to the heavy work of shaping large sections of wood. In practice, woodcarving often begins with the use of larger tools, which help establish the basic form.

As the process moves along, carvers usually shift to progressively smaller chisels to refine the finer elements of the piece.

Among the larger chisels, the “slick” stands out; it’s commonly employed in timber frame construction and traditional wooden shipbuilding, thanks to its size and cutting power. Of course, woodworking makes use of an assortment of chisels, each designed with a specific task in mind.

• Firmer Chisel: This type features a blade with a thick, rectangular cross section, giving it the strength needed to handle tougher and heavier woodworking tasks.
• Bevel Edge Chisel: Thanks to its beveled edges, this chisel can reach into acute angles, making it handy for detailed joinery where tight corners are involved.
• Mortise Chisel: Recognized by its thick, rigid blade with a straight cutting edge and deep, slightly tapered sides, the mortise chisel is designed for cutting mortises and similar joints. Among the common variations are registered and sash mortise chisels.
• Paring Chisel: The paring chisel stands out with its long blade, which makes it especially useful for cleaning out grooves and reaching into narrow or awkward spots.
• Skew Chisel: With a cutting angle of 60 degrees, the skew chisel is well suited for trimming and finishing wood across the grain, providing a smooth, precise finish.
• Dovetail Chisel: Made specifically for dovetail joints, this chisel is distinguished by the thickness of its body and the angle of its edges. These design features allow for easier access when shaping dovetail joints.
• Butt Chisel: Characterized by a short length, beveled sides, and a straight edge, the butt chisel is typically used for forming joints, especially where space is limited.
• Carving Chisels: Used for creating intricate designs and sculptural details, carving chisels come in a variety of edge shapes, including gouge, skew, parting, straight, paring, and V-groove, each suited to different carving techniques.
• Corner Chisel: Resembling a punch, the corner chisel has an L-shaped cutting edge, making it effective for cleaning out square holes, mortises, and corners that require precise 90 degree angles.
• Flooring Chisel: As the name suggests, this chisel is designed for cutting and lifting flooring materials, particularly useful for removing or repairing tongue and groove flooring.
• Framing Chisel: Typically used alongside a mallet, the framing chisel is similar to a butt chisel but features a longer and slightly flexible blade, making it suitable for heavy framing work.
• Slick: A slick is a notably large chisel meant to be driven by hand pressure alone it is never struck. Its size makes it ideal for finishing large joints or smoothing broad surfaces.
• Drawer Lock Chisel: Built entirely of metal and fitted with two angled blades, this chisel is specifically designed for tight spaces, such as cutting recesses to fit desk drawer locks.

2. Metalworking chisels

A chisel set serves as a fundamental tool in various metalworking applications. Among these, cold chisels are particularly useful for carefully removing surplus material from softer metals, allowing for precise adjustments without damaging the underlying workpiece.

The flathead design is versatile enough to slice through metal sheets or carve out notches along the surface, thanks to its sturdy steel construction.

When working with aluminum, it is often effective to choose a chisel that tapers to a fine point. By striking this tool with a hammer, you can create clean punctures through the metal, minimizing distortion around the hole.

In metalworking, chisels are generally classified into two primary types: hot chisels and cold chisels, each suited to specific tasks depending on the properties of the material and the requirements of the project.

2.1 Hot chisel

A hot chisel serves a crucial role in metalworking, especially when working with metal that has been heated in a forge to become more malleable. Among the various types, the hot cut hardy is particularly noteworthy.

This chisel is designed to fit into the hardy hole of an anvil, with its cutting edge oriented upwards. The heated metal, ready for cutting, is positioned directly over the chisel and struck with a hammer.

The force of the hammer pushes the softened metal down onto the chisel’s edge, enabling the user to finish the cut cleanly typically by snapping the piece apart using tongs.

For larger workpieces, it’s common practice to use this tool alongside a top fuller style hot cut, which helps manage the increased size and thickness of the material.

2.2 Cold Chisels

Cold chisels serve a vital role in metalworking, particularly when dealing with heavy metal pieces that are difficult or impossible to cut using a saw or shears often because the available space is too limited for larger tools.

They’re also invaluable for a variety of repair tasks, such as removing rivet heads, cutting through rusted nuts and bolts, and handling other demanding jobs where precision and strength are essential.

Historically, before the widespread availability of machine tools, cold chisels were a staple in general engineering. Metal components were usually cast to approximate dimensions, allowing the furnace to do most of the shaping work.

Cold chisels then became essential for trimming away excess material from specific areas of the casting, refining these sections to their exact size. After this initial shaping, the surfaces were typically finished with filing and scraping to achieve the required smoothness and precision.

A cold chisel is typically made from carbon tool steel, recognized by its octagonal cross section. This choice of material isn’t arbitrary tool steel can be hardened, allowing the chisel to hold a tough, durable cutting edge suitable for repeated use.

The process of making a cold chisel involves heating the end of a tool steel bar until it glows bright red, then hammering it into the desired shape. It’s common to reheat the bar several times, as the metal cools quickly during forging.

For those without access to a traditional blacksmith’s anvil, the face of a large sledgehammer can serve as an alternative, provided its surface is in good condition. In such cases, clamping the sledgehammer in a sturdy vice is recommended to keep it stable.

One important safety note: never strike the face of the sledgehammer with your forging hammer, as this could cause chips of hardened steel to break off, potentially resulting in serious eye injuries.

Once you have forged the chisel to the correct shape, the cutting edge can be ground according to the required specification. After grinding, the tool must be hardened and then tempered this crucial step ensures the edge is tough enough to resist cracking during use.

It’s also worth noting that the precise grinding and tempering process may vary slightly depending on the type of material you intend to work with.

3. Stone Chisels

With so many types of stones for sharpening, it can be difficult to determine what the best stone is for your woodworking needs.

Fortunately, the variety of stone materials will allow you to select a material that will meet your needs and stay within your budget.

The three main types of bench stones are oil stones, Waterstones, and diamond stones. Since every woodworker’s needs and preferences are different, understanding the advantages of each stone will allow you to be a more informed purchaser of sharpening stones.

3.1. Oilstones

Oilstones have long held a place in sharpening traditions, valued by generations for their effectiveness. These stones come in both natural and synthetic forms.

The synthetic varieties are typically composed of silicon carbide or aluminum oxide and are offered in a range of coarse, medium, and fine grades.

Natural oilstones, on the other hand, are quarried from novaculite and categorized into grades like Soft Arkansas, Hard Arkansas, and Hard Translucent Arkansas. In general, the harder the stone, the finer its abrasive qualities.

Because natural oilstones tend to have finer grits than their synthetic counterparts, it’s common for sharpening enthusiasts to keep both types on hand, ensuring flexibility for various sharpening needs.

3.2. Waterstones

Waterstones have become a favorite among woodworkers, mainly because of their speed. They come in natural and synthetic versions, much like oilstones, though in most Western shops, synthetic waterstones are the go-to choice.

These synthetic stones are usually made with aluminum oxide. Interestingly, although aluminum oxide is used in some oilstones as well, the two types of stones differ in key ways.

Most notably, waterstones rely on water as a lubricant to wash away swarf, making cleanup simpler and use more convenient.

Another key advantage is speed. Waterstones sharpen more quickly than oilstones due to their softer binding material, which allows fresh abrasive to be exposed as the stone wears.

However, this same softness means they require regular maintenance to keep their surfaces flat a necessary trade off for their fast cutting action.

3.3. Diamond Stones

A growing number of woodworkers are recognizing the practical benefits that diamond stones offer. Unlike traditional oil or water stones, diamond stones are entirely synthetic.

The abrasive surface is formed by bonding industrial grade diamonds to a metal base, resulting in a tool that stands apart from its natural counterparts.

One notable advantage of diamond stones is their versatility. They are capable of sharpening any woodworking tool, including those with carbide tipped edges something that oil and water stones simply cannot do.

Additionally, diamond stones have the benefit of maintaining a consistently even surface. Their exceptional hardness means they do not wear down unevenly over time.

In fact, this same quality allows diamond stones to serve another purpose: they can be used to flatten oil and water stones when those surfaces become irregular.

4. Masonry Chisels

Masonry chisels are typically substantial tools, distinguished by their relatively blunt heads that function more by wedging and breaking than by slicing through material. These chisels are often put to work in demolition settings.

Depending on the job, they might be attached to a hammer drill, a jackhammer, or simply struck by hand using a heavy hammer usually something weighing three pounds or more. Most commonly, these tools feature an SDS, SDS-MAX, or 1-1/8″ Hex connection.

Not all masonry chisels are built alike; some are intended specifically for working with softer stone, while others are robust enough to handle tougher materials without issue.

Much like brick chisels, masonry chisels are mainly employed for scoring stone. The process resembles glass cutting: the key step is to make a scoreline, and then to break along that line.

Achieving a clean break requires patience gentle taps with the chisel are used to create the score, and only once it is complete can the stone be snapped along the marked line.

There are also floor chisels, which are a bit of a workhorse in their own right. They come in handy for scraping floors, removing hardened blobs of concrete, and handling various other rough tasks that call for a sturdy chisel.

Within the category of masonry chisels, several distinct types exist, including:

• Moil (point) chisels
• Flat chisels
• Asphalt cutters
• Carbide bushing tools
• Clay spades
• Flexible chisels
• Tampers

A plugging chisel, for example, features a tapered edge and is designed for cleaning out hardened mortar from joints. To use it, you hold the chisel with one hand and strike it with a hammer.

The direction of the blade’s taper actually matters it influences whether the tool will cut deeply or skim more shallowly along the mortar joint.

What is Gouge Chisel?

A gouge, in its modern form, resembles a chisel, though with a key difference: instead of a flat blade edge, the gouge’s edge is curved or angled when viewed in cross section.

Most contemporary gouges are designed so that the handle and blade share the same central axis, creating a tool that feels balanced and straightforward to control.

When it comes to the shape of the blade, there are a couple of distinctions worth noting. If the beveled side is on the outside of the curve, it’s known as an ‘out-cannel’ gouge; when the bevel is on the inside, it’s called an ‘in cannel’ gouge.

And for those blades that are more sharply angled than curved, you’ll often hear them referred to as ‘V-gouges’ or ‘vee parting tools’ handy names for tools that cut more defined grooves.

Manufacturers generally use a numbering system to describe the geometry of each blade, though it’s not entirely universal and tends to vary a bit depending on where the tool is made. Each gouge has what’s called a “sweep number,” which refers to the arc of the blade’s curve.

These numbers usually start at #1, which is essentially flat, and go up to #9 for a semi circular blade. There are some specialized sweeps beyond that such as a deep, U-shaped #11, or the sharply angled v-tools that can be numbered as high as #41.

Blade width is another important measurement. This is simply the distance from one edge of the blade to the other, representing the chord of the circle formed by the curve.

When you put the sweep number and the width together, you get something like “#7-20mm,” a clear shorthand for the tool’s shape and size.

Some makers even provide charts that visually lay out the sweep profiles of their blades, which can be a big help when you’re choosing the right gouge for a specific job.

There are plenty of specialized variations as well.

• ‘Crank neck’ gouges have a slight offset between the handle and blade, making it easier to work flat against a surface.
• ‘Spoon bent’ gouges have a curve along the length of the blade, which lets you reach into hollows or recesses that would be impossible with a straight gouge.
• Then there’s the ‘fishtail’ gouge, which stays narrow along most of its length but flares out near the edge perfect for getting into tight corners.

These specialized forms allow woodworkers and artists to carve or shape areas that would otherwise be out of reach. In some cases, the same cutting profile found in a gouge can even be incorporated into other tools, like the adze similar in form to the modern mattock.

Gouges are invaluable in both woodworking and the arts. Whether it’s a violin maker carefully shaping the top plate, a cabinetmaker running elegant flutes along a piece of furniture, or a printmaker carving away linoleum to create a new image, the gouge plays a critical role in skilled hands.

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